London & South-East England

Draught Proofing

The cheapest insulation measure with the fastest payback, fitted by our own team in a day.

PAS 2030:2023 CertifiedTrustMark ApprovedOwn trained team

Is draught proofing right for your home?

  • Victorian and Edwardian houses with original sash windows and open fireplaces
  • Homes that feel cold and draughty even with the heating on
  • Suspended timber floors with gaps between the boards and under the skirtings
  • Owners who want the fastest payback before larger insulation work
  • Landlords improving comfort for tenants at low cost

Draught Proofing: key facts

  • Draught proofing costs £20 to £60 per door or window and £250 to £700 for a whole house, at 0% VAT.
  • It is the cheapest heat saving measure with the fastest payback, and it makes a home feel warmer at the same thermostat setting.
  • The main leaks are sash windows, external doors, letterboxes, loft hatches, floorboard and skirting gaps, open chimneys and holes where pipes and cables pass through walls.
  • An open chimney can be sealed with a removable balloon or a cap for £60 to £250.
  • We never seal a home shut: trickle vents, extract fans and air bricks stay clear so moisture can leave.
  • Fitted by our own team, usually in one visit, with a written guarantee.

What is draught proofing?

Draught proofing closes the gaps that let cold air in and warm air out. Brush or compression seals go into the rebates of doors and sash windows, a brush plate goes over the letterbox, a foam or rubber seal goes around the loft hatch, and floorboard and skirting gaps are filled with a flexible filler or a fitted strip. Open chimneys, which can pull a room full of warm air up the flue every hour, are closed with a removable inflatable balloon or a cap fitted at the top.

Victorian and Edwardian terraces across London, Kent and Surrey were built with timber sash windows, suspended timber floors and an open fireplace in every room, and all three leak air. The result is a house that never feels warm no matter how high the heating runs, because the warm air is replaced several times an hour. Uncontrolled air leakage is one of the largest heat losses in an older home, and it is also the cheapest to fix.

We walk the house room by room, find each leak by hand and with a thermal camera in the heating season, and quote for the whole set. Our own team fits the seals in a single visit for most houses. We also check the ventilation: trickle vents, bathroom and kitchen extract fans and air bricks under the floor stay open, because a sealed house without ventilation gets condensation and mould.

Who does the work

Draught proofing is fitted by our own trained team, usually in a single visit. It is often the first job on a whole house plan and we fit it alongside loft and floor insulation so the seals and the insulation work together.

Draught Proofing cost guide

Indicative 2026 market ranges for London and the South-East. Your fixed quote follows a free survey and depends on the number of openings and the type of windows.

Job typeIndicative cost
Door or window£20 – £60
Whole house draught proofing£250 – £700
Chimney balloon or cap£60 – £250
Floorboard and skirting gapsItemised
Thermal imaging leak checkIncluded

VAT: 0%. Draught stripping for windows and doors is named as an energy-saving material in HMRC VAT Notice 708/6, so it is charged at 0% VAT until 31 March 2027.

What we seal

Brush pile seals to sash windows, including the meeting rails and parting beads
Compression seals to casement windows and external doors
Brush plates to letterboxes and covers to keyholes
Foam or rubber seals and a catch to the loft hatch, with insulation on its back
Flexible filler or fitted strips to floorboard and skirting gaps
Chimney balloons or caps, and sealing around pipes and cables through external walls

How draught proofing works

1

Free survey

We go room by room, check every window, door, hatch, chimney and floor, and use a thermal camera in the heating season to find the leaks you cannot feel.

2

Fixed quote

A written, itemised quote listing each opening and the seal to be fitted, with the ventilation we will leave in place or add.

3

Installation

Our own team fits the seals, fills the floor gaps and closes the chimneys, usually in a single day for a typical house.

4

Check and guarantee

We test that each door and window closes properly on the new seal, confirm the vents are clear and leave a written guarantee.

Free survey & fixed quote

Book a free, no-obligation survey and we will send a clear, fixed written quote. One point of contact from survey to sign-off, and a written guarantee on the work.

Get a free quote

Draught Proofing FAQs

How much does draught proofing cost?
£20 to £60 per door or window, and £250 to £700 for a whole house, depending on how many openings there are. A chimney balloon or cap is £60 to £250. Draught stripping is 0% VAT until 31 March 2027. Quotes are free.
Is draught proofing worth it?
Yes, more than any other measure for the money. It costs a fraction of insulation, cuts the number of times the warm air in the house is replaced each hour and makes rooms feel warmer straight away. It also stops the cold draught across the floor that makes people turn the heating up.
Can you draught proof sash windows without replacing them?
Yes. Brush pile seals are fitted to the parting beads and staff beads or routed into the sashes, so the window still slides and looks original. This is the usual approach in conservation areas and listed homes where the windows must stay.
Will sealing the house cause condensation?
It can if you seal everything, which is why we do not. Trickle vents, extract fans and air bricks stay open and working, and we recommend a fan for any bathroom or kitchen without one. Draught proofing removes uncontrolled leaks; ventilation is kept deliberate and controlled.
What about an open chimney?
An unused open chimney pulls warm air out of the room all day. A chimney balloon is inflated inside the flue and can be removed if you want a fire; a cap fitted at the top keeps rain and birds out as well. Never seal a flue that is still used by a fire or a gas appliance.
Should I draught proof before insulating?
Do both, and doing the draught proofing first is fine because it is quick and cheap. When we insulate a loft or a floor we seal the loft hatch and the floor gaps as part of the job, so the two measures work together.

Related guides

In-depth, independent guidance to help you decide.

Last reviewed September 2026 by Stay Warm Insulation.

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